Her family of sisters and a brother were coming down the road from somewhere beyond the turnoff for the waterfall. We had driven the car as far up the mountain road from the village at the park’s entrance to a point I guess at 800 feet in elevation. There the road became impassible for a Toyota minivan. We started our ascent on the same rutted, dirt and rock road that this girl was descending with a bundle of stick on her head. She seemed proud to be able to help her family make enough money to feed her and maybe replace ...